Birmingham, Alabama: Kelly Ingram Park and Vulcan Park

 

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In June, Aleksi and I took an eight-day roadtrip through the south. Starting in Nashville on a Friday evening, we headed down to Birmingham, where we spend the night and most of the next day before driving to Mobile, Alabama to spend the night. Early Sunday morning, we drove the hour or so to Dauphin Island on the Gulf Coast. After a day in the sand and sun and Audubon Bird Sanctuary we drove to New Orleans, where we spent three days exploring the city and the nearby swamps. From NOLA, we headed north a bit to Lafayette, Louisiana, where we spent the night in an Airbnb houseboat on the Vermillion River. To wrap up our trip, we zipped up to Jackson, Mississippi and spent two days taking the beautiful Natchez Trace Parkway the rest of the way home, stopping in Tupelo (birthplace of Elvis), to spend the night.   birmingham12

In Birmingham, we stayed with a cool retired intellectual couple in their old home on a hill overlooking the city. In the morning, the husband plied us with fresh muffins and espresso, and we chatted about economics and Marxism before leaving to explore the city. We spent most of our time learning more about the Civil Rights Era in Birmingham in and around Kelly Ingram Park. The park itself had some intense sculptures memorializing the brutal attacks of police against protesters, including participants in the children’s marches.

birmingham1 On one corner of the park is the 16th St. Baptist Church, where four little African American girls were murdered by a bomber in 1963. There is a memorial to the girls in the park (first picture in the post). We took a tour of the church and listened to a member of the church talk about its history and role in the African American community in Birmingham and the Civil Rights Movement.

birmingham5On another side of the park is the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute, an outstanding history museum and research center. I really enjoyed my visit there. It appeared to have some of the same exhibit designers as the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis and the Center for Civil and Human Rights in Atlanta, but even where the content overlapped, they offered unique insights and visual tools for understanding. birmingham4

There is also a great Civil Rights history walking path in downtown Birmingham. We followed the signs from Kelly Ingram Park, which gave us a direction to wander until we came across a Caribbean festival happening in a park and stopped for lunch.

birmingham10After lunch, we visited the 50%  kitschy/ 50% majestic Vulcan Park, where there is a giant cast iron statue (the largest in the world) of Vulcan atop a column on  hill overlooking the entire city. You can walk or ride an elevator up to the top of the column, where you can get great view of Birmingham and Vulcan’s buns. The statue was built for the 1904 World Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri, then brought back to Birmingham (home of the iron smelting industry at the time) and placed on his pedestal.

Speaking of iron, our final stop for the day was the historic Sloss Furnace, which deserves its own blog post entirely  (coming up next.

 

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[35mm taken with my Canon EOS Rebel 2000. As soon as I post more entries from this trip, you’ll be able to see them here.]

Historic Madison, Indiana

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Just across the Ohio River from Kentucky, about an hour northeast of Louisville, is the precious historic town of Madison, Indiana. It’s a picture-book American small town, tucked in a narrow valley along the river. The National Park Service has documented 43 historic buildings in Madison’s National Landmark District, and during WWII it was so picturesque that the U.S. government used it as the filming location for a 10 minute propaganda piece.madison1

Aleksi and I spent the day in Madison at the tail end of a visit to Louisville in early 2016. While Louisville turned out not to be a great city to explore on a cold, dark winter day, Madison was charming even with most historic sites shut and intermittent snow fall. Thanks to connections through my job, we got a tour of the Shrewsbury-Windle House, which was closed to the public for restoration. That building and the house below were build by the same Baltimore architect in the mid-1800’s. They both feature gorgeous tall ceilings, stunning spiral staircases, and views of the river. On my Instagram you can see a shot of the the interior and staircase of the yellow house. madison20

We wandered around historic downtown Madison, enjoying the lovely little historic houses and main street and popping into a few cute stores. It was worth a visit in the winter, and I’m sure it’s delightful in the summer. For extra credit, check out my Instagram of the snow falling on the quiet main street.

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[Photos taken with a Canon Rebel EOS 2000 SLR.]

Nashville, TN: A Winter Stroll Over the Cumberland River

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One of my favorite things in Nashville is the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge over the Cumberland River. When the weather is nice, I cross it in the morning and evening on my bike commute to work. Most recently, I marched across it with 15,000 others to protest the Trump administration. These photos here are from last year around this time, when Aleksi first visited Nashville and we did some exploratory rambling together in bitter cold weather. nashville26

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nashville23[35mm taken with my Canon EOS Rebel 2000. Click here for more photos of Tennessee.]

Monuments and Memorials in Downtown Nashville, TN

nashville9A few sites in downtown Nashville. Above: My former least favorite and now second least favorite American president, Andrew Jackson. Capitol Hill. Below: The historic Downtown Presbyterian Church. Built in 1848, but the site of a church since 1818. Very iconic double towers worth googling if you are interested in that sort of thing. nashville11Below: A statue at War Memorial Plaza. nashville10
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Above: My handsome Finnish fella.Below: A war (WWII?) memorial in the Bicentennial Mall State Park.
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[35mm taken with my Canon EOS Rebel 2000. Click here for more photos of Tennessee.]

Memphis: National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel

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I first visited the National Civil Rights Museum in Memphis back in October 2015, soon after moving to Nashville. I went back a few months later. Both times, I felt like two hours went by too quickly and regretted not giving myself the whole day to spend in the museum. It’s one of the best museums I’ve ever visited (and I’ve gone to a lot). The exhibit design makes it a great experience for all ages, all races, and all levels of museum-going (from non-museum people to museum lovers). If you find yourself in Memphis, don’t miss it.

The Museums is built in and around the Lorraine Motel, the significant African American institution where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968. After walking through the galleries that take you through African American history in the US from the trans-Atlantic slave trade to Black Power movement (and somewhat up to today), you end up looking through a glass wall into the room where MLK spent his last moment. It’s a really moving experience, to say the least.

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[[35mm taken with my Canon EOS Rebel 2000. Click here for more photos of Tennessee.]